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-Tech Tips-

We in the car hobby love to share our good ideas. This page is dedicated to just that. Members can post tips any time from the member's section. Not a member and want to post some advise? Just click a link at the bottom of the page and we will add it. Be sure to include a name so we can give credit where credit is due!

 



-Glass cleaning-
When cleaning glass a terry cloth towel works wonders over paper towels.
Posted by kyle


-Cleaner Seatbelts-
Use Greased Lightning to clean seat belts. Simply remove seat belts from car, put in sink and spray with Greased Lightning, scrub, rinse and repeat. Hang belts to dry. They come out cleaner than ever. http://www.greased-lightning.com/
Posted by Kathy B.


-window cleaner-
Grandma Beach's window cleaning solution. The best window solution that I have found is making my own. It does not streak and even works great on chrome. First you start with a gallon jug of distilled water, remove 16oz. of water out of your jug and dump it down the drain. next, dump a 16oz. container of rubbing alcohol into the remainning gallon jug of distilled water. for the last step you will put a tablespoon of hair shampoo into the water,alcohol solution in the gallon jug(this will give it that little foaming that you need. shake the jug until fully mixed.Pour into a spray bottle. You now have the best window cleaner and metal cleaner on earth that does not streak. The entire materials used should not cost you more than $1.50 I call it grandma Beach's window cleaner. Good Luck
Posted by Randy


-No more fiberglass hood springs-
Want to hold up your fiberglass hood with out springs? Have someone open your hood all the way then drill a 1/4" hole through each hinge. Now make or buy some nice 1/4" pins to slide through the holes. This works great just remember to remove the pins before closing the hood!
Posted by Kyle


-Brake lines 65-66-
Anyone swiching from a single exhaust to a dual exhaust on a 65 or 66 Mustang make sure you re-route your rear brake lines so the rubber portion is not hitting your tail pipe
Posted by tom r


-Chrome Cleaning-
Marks on your Chrome? Slight rust. Try some 0000 Steel wool found at most Hardware stores. Use gloves and be sure to try Wayne's metal polish to finish the job.
Posted by Mike T


-Silicone moulding repair-
Do You have a tear or piece of rubber moulding missing? Use silcone sealer to fill or seal the tear. Stretch Saran wrap over the repair and close the door, trunk, sunroof. The silicone will conform and dry to the contours. It will not bond to the silicone. With a little care you will have a good repair and save buying that full piece of moulding.
Posted by Mike T


-Rust removal-
Rust removal technique (great for parts) First you will need: a large container to hold the solution. I use a 15 gallon bucket I got at Home Depot the one with the two rope handles. Then a battery charger (any size) I have a 10 amp charger. a sacrificial piece of steel. I use stainless since it lasts longer. I got an old stainless sink and cut a section of that or you could use an old stainless kitchen pot lid or pot for that matter. You want a piece of steel with a lot of surface area. Then some washing soda, look for this at the grocery store next to the laundry detergent. I use Arm & Hammer brand. Fill the container with water and add one tablespoon of washing soda for every gallon of water, if you use more soda it's OK. Then put your stainless steel in the water and put the red or positive (this is important) clip from the charger on the stainless steel. Try to keep the clip out of the water since it is made of copper and will disintegrate fast. Then take your rusty or painted part and stick it in the water/washing soda mix and attach the black or negative clip to it. If the clip goes in the water it's OK it will be fine. Then plug in the charger and wait. Don't let the part and the stainless steel touch. You will see bubbles start to come off the part within minutes. If you see little bubbles it's working. I give most parts a day or so and they come out with no rust. This process seems to turn the rust into a black substance that you can wash off with a stainless steel wire brush and a scrub pad. It's good to wear gloves while cleaning or the black stuff will stain you fingers. The rustier the part the longer it needs to soak. This process will remove paint and all the rust and will not damage the good metal. It is much gentler on the metal then a wire brush on a drill. Plus it is a lot easier. Once the solution starts to get real dirty I just dump the solution on my lawn. The grass really seems to like the iron and gets real green. You might want to give it a try. One problem is that once you clean the part with water and a scrub brush you will need to dry it and be ready to paint it with a primmer or it will flash rust. But remember you can leave it in the solution till your ready to clean it. This process will not hurt good metal only rust.
Posted by Bob W. (posting from my classic T-bird forum)


-we should join this-
http://clubs.collectorcartraderonline.com/
Posted by nick leogrande


-Headlight Buffing-
Plastic Headlight lens can be buffed with a cordless drill and a cotton wheel. I have used a fine cut polish with very good results. Just smear some polish on the lens and buff at full speed 1000 to 2000 and use gentle pressure. Let the buff get dry and the lens should start shining. Repeat if needed and you can do any other lens the same way.
Posted by Mike Tashjian


-Engine Work-
Need engine work on a vintage car? TBR (formerly Ferrand’s) at 144 Ball Circle (off Aimsley Dr.) in Syracuse did a fantastic job on Rich Leneker’s 351, bored and honed. Ted Bauer had work done on cylinder heads for a 289. They highly recommend TBR. Contact TBR at 315-952-4643 and ask for Mark
Posted by Mike Holy